Time to be Thankful….

 

 

Thanksgiving is just around the corner and it’s time again for all of us to slow down a little bit and give thanks for what we have and the wonderful people around us. 

Throughout the last couple of years one of the “coined phrases” i have heard by many people is that “banks just don’t want to loan money anymore”.  I think it’s time to shed that negativity and start giving some thanks for what we do have…..which is a lot!  Let’s talk about some of them……

  • We can still help you buy a home with no down payment!  There’s a few ways we can do this.  A customer who has served in the military can buy with no money down with a VA Loan.  There are a ton of properties slightly outside the city limits that can be purchased with a USDA loan.  The North Carolina Housing Finance committee may help you with up to $8000.00 in down payment assistance and they just raised the limits making that easier to get!
  • If none of the above apply, you can still buy with only 3.5% down with a FHA loan with a 30yr interest rate that often times is BELOW 4%.  If you don’t have the money right now for the down payment, we can STILL get gift money from a family member and sometimes an employer!
  • You can buy a Fannie Mae foreclosure right now without having to get an appraisal.  You can buy that property with VERY little down, no appraisal, no mortgage insurance, and often times STEAL them for a very good price!
  • You can buy a home and fix it up all with one loan at a very good interest rate so you don’t have to come out-of-pocket later to make the improvements you need or want to make.
  • You can still buy a home with a credit score as low as 600!
  • There are HUD properties on the market being sold for only $100 down!

Interest rates are GREAT, home prices are LOW, and banks ARE lending money!  Let me know if i can help….

 

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HARP Program – who is eligible??

 

The government has created some buzz around the HARP program that is supposed to help people who are currently under water on their mortgages get some help and take advantage of today’s interest rates.  I thought i would give some guidance around this as it may help yourself or someone you know….i’ll try and keep it concise..

  1. Available for primary residences
  2. Must be owned or guaranteed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac.  There will be some links below to find out if your home is eligible.
  3. Can go to 125% of the value on the first mortgage…you cannot pay off the second and include that if there is one.
  4. VA and FHA loans are not included in the program.
  5. 620 credit score and no lates on mortgage in last 12mths
  6. Not available on JUMBO loans.

I’m trying to keep it short so those are the highlights.  If someone wants to see if they are eligible, check out the two links below….one is for Fannie Mae and one is for Freddie Mac…if they come up in either one of those searches than they are eligible provided they meet the criteria above.

http://www.FannieMae.com/loanlookup/

https://ww3.freddiemac.com/corporate/

Let me know if you have any questions.  Call me at 919.961.8808 or fill out the form below and i’ll get back to you within 24hrs.  Have a great day!
 

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Change,Change,Change…What is happening in October!

 

As always, we are constantly seeing a lot of change in the mortgage business.  This month, there are changes being made to virtually every mortgage product on the market.  Here are the changes that could affect your home purchase:

VA Loans – Loans for those that have served in our armed forces:

Recent changes to the law that go into effect on October 1st has mandated change with regard to the “funding fee” that is charged on a VA Loan.  The funding fee is the up-front fee that is rolled into a VA loan and put on top of the loan amount in order to have the ability to obtain a 100% Purchase loan.  This fee has been slightly over 2% of the loan amount.  The VA Fee has been dramatically reduced effective October 1.

Loan Type Veteran Type Down Payment Funding Fee
Purchase Regular Military None 1.40%
    5%- 9.99% 0.75%
    10% or more 0.50%
       
Purchase Reserves/Guard None 1.65%
    5% – 9.99% 1%
    10% or more 0.75%

 

USDA Loans- Rural Development

The next change that is happening is with Rural Development Loan….most people refer to these as “USDA Loans”.  This is a loan option that also offers 100% financing options with eligibility for this program mostly determined on where the property is.  USDA Loans have had a fee that is rolled into the loan that is slightly over 3% of the loan amount.  This up-front fee has been reduced to 2% of the loan amount.  However, to replace this reduction, USDA has initiated and annual fee of .30% of the loan amount that will be collected monthly.  This is calculated as follows:  $200,000 Loan Amount x .3% = $600.00.  $600/12 = $50/mth Rural Development Fee.  This is the first time I’ve seen Rural Development collect a monthly fee but please remember that this is still low compared to other products and still gives you the ability to get 100% Financing.

FHA Loan Limits are Changing

The limits on FHA loans are changing….in most cases, the limit is reducing.  This means that the size loan you can get with a FHA loan is going to be less.  In my home county (Wake County) that limit is being reduced from $298,000 to $271,050.  The limits are not changing in every county.  The following link will help you find what the limit is for your area.   FHA Loan Limits

There are also some changes that most people will not be effected by with regard Temporary Conventional Loan Limits.  These loan limits were raised in certain markets and are now set to expire October 1st.  Please contact me if you have any questions.  Have a great day!

 

“What’s your Rate ?”…….

 

This is the golden question….I think every industry professional has one or two questions they hear from their potential customers on a regular basis….well, this is mine.  So, let’s shed some light on this and how it really works, especially with the new laws that were put in place for mortgage companies.

Every day, mortgage lenders will issue issue their rates for all of the products that they currently offer.  The common products will include FHA, VA, USDA, and Conventional products.  There is essentially a base interest rate for each of these products…..a starting point.  This will essentially be the absolute BEST interest rate that can be offered for the day for the best most qualified customer and will require some up-front lender fees (origination) to be offered.  From that intitial rate, there will be “adjustments” that the loan officer has to make based on the particular qualifications of that customer.  Here are some examples of adjustments:

  • Loan Size Adjustments
  • Adjustments to waive origination fees
  • Credit Score Adjustments
  • Adjustments for investment homes and second homes
  • Adjustments for Loan-to-Value (how much the customer is putting down)
  • Adjustments for 203k and rehabilitation.

Let me give you an example.  Let’s say that John Smith wants to purchase a second home.  John is going to put 20% down.  He has a credit score of 683, the loan amount is going to be $137,000.  John does not believe in paying any origination fees to do the mortgage.  Let’s say the beginning rate for the day is 4%.  On that day, the lender has a .25% adjustment for no origination, a .125% adjustment for credit scores under 700, a .125% adjustment for second homes, and a .125% adjustment for loan amounts under $150,000.  The best rate that could be offered for John would be 4% + all of the adjustments which, in this case, would be 4.625%

 Each product will have their own set of adjustments for different things so it’s important you explore the advantages and disadvantages of a couple different products with regard to your actual goals.  One example is that conventional loans tend to have much heavier adjustments for credit score vs. an FHA or VA loan.  The adjustments, along with interest rates, will also change daily based on the “appetite” of the mortgage lenders and how their portfolio’s are performing.  For example, if they are experiencing more than normal delinquency and have identified the problem to be prevolent on second homes, the adjustment for that product might go from .125% to .375%.  Please contact me with any questions:

 

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Conventional vs. FHA…..which is best? There’s a competition brewing!

One of my co-workers and I were talking today about how many loans we are doing that are conventional vs. FHA.  We used to do a ton of FHA loans…now…not so much.

The competition between the two arises on primary residences.  This is simply because you can’t do a FHA loan if you are buying an investment property or second home.  The FHA product can’t be used for these type purchases.

So, having said that, when is it best to proceed with a conventional loan and when is it best to do an FHA?  The key to this lies in two main factors…(1) Loan-to-Value (how much are you putting down) (2)credit score and (3) Loan Amount. There are others but these are the big ones.

Conventional loans typically cannot be offered for a customer at all if their credit score is below 620.  If a customer has a credit score between 620 and 660, the customer is almost always going to have to put 20% down.  The reason for this is that the mortgage insurance companies that insure the lender for the amount of the loan over 20% typically do not offer this insurance when a customer has a credit score below 660.  So, bottom line, it’s pretty safe to say that if a customer does not have a credit score of 660 or higher and cannot pay 20% down on the property, a conventional loan is not going to be the product for them.  The FHA loan is going to win this battle.

The fight really begins at a 660 score or higher.  I’ve found that a lot of people aren’t aware of this, but a conventional mortgage can be offered with only 5% down.  The reason most people aren’t aware of this is because it used to be that the Mortgage Insurance that was required on a Conventional loan with only 5% down was astronomical compared to a FHA loan.  This is no longer the case.  HUD has increased the amount of MI required on FHA loans a few times over the last couple years, and now, more times than not, the amount of MI on a FHA loan is HIGHER than the amount of MI on a Conventional loan even when the customer isn’t putting much down.  Even further, FHA is going to have an up-front insurance premium that increases the loan amount where Conventional loans do not.

The only thing that can offset this difference in MI (with FHA often times being higher) is that Conventional Interest Rates may be slightly higher than FHA.  This can vary day-to-day and also depends on the customer’s credit score and the lender’s pricing model. It’s important to put the two options side-by-side at this point and also consider how long you estimate you will be in the property.

The limits on how big an FHA loan can be is determined by geographic area.  Consult your loan officer for what those limits are as your loan may be to big for an FHA loan.  Typically, Conventional loans can be offered for loan amounts up to $417,000.

Now, the last thing is that a FHA loan can still be done with only 3.5% down.  This is slightly lower than Conventional loans, so if you want to save as much cash up-front, the FHA will win this one.

In short, make sure to compare both options when your credit score is 660 or higher and you are willing to put at least 5% down.  Consider how long you plan to stay in the property and compare total payments on each option for that time period.  Contact me if you have questions.

Disaster Areas and how it could effect your loan…

Hurricane Irene just did a number on a big portion of the East Coast with a lot of it incurred in my home state of North Carolina.  This can have an obvious effect on your loan approval process. 

The most challenging part of the loan approval process in today’s environment is collateral….what is the home really worth that the lender is making a loan on and is it structurally sound and marketable.  As such, the lender, in a disaster area, is going to make REAL sure that the home we are lending on is not underwater or damaged in any way.  If an appraisal has already been done, it doesn’t mean you are safe.  It is very common in these circumstances that the lender will require an additional re-inspection of the property for all loans in designated disaster areas.  As such, it is important that everyone involved in the process be aware of this and make arrangements to extend contracts as needed.  If you are scheduled to close this week, i would contact the lender immediately and see if this is going to be an issue so you can make adjustments accordingly.  If the re-inspection is required, please also make sure that your loan officer goes over the appraisal in detail to make sure there are no improvements noted by the appraiser that may need to be fixed.  Damage to the property incurred by the storm will most likely have to be taken care of.

If the appraisal is not scheduled, i would make sure the contract and due dilligence period is long enough for a 45 day closing.  Appraisers are going to be busy with new appraisals and going back for multiple re-inspections during this period and turn-times will slow down.  I would contact your buyers and sellers this week to discuss the impact the storm had on them.  The following counties in North Carolina have been designated by FEMA as disaster areas per their website.  These are the counties i am sure the lenders will be targeting for extra care on the appraisal process:

 Beaufort County, Bertie County, Brunswick County, Camden County, Carteret County, Chowan County, Columbus County, Craven County, Currituck County, Dare County, Duplin County, Edgecombe County, Gates County, Greene County, Halifax County, Hertford County, Hyde County, Johnston County, Jones County, Lenoir County, Martin County, Nash County, New Hanover County, Northampton County, Onslow County, Pamlico County, Pasquotank County, Pender County, Perquimans County, Pitt County, Tyrrell County, Washington County, Wayne County, and Wilson County.

Please contact me with any questions you have and stay in touch with your loan officer this week to make the right moves with regard to your loan process.

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Mortgage Insurance!

I get a lot of questions and concerns every day about “PMI” or whether or not we (as customer’s) have to pay mortgage insurance.  Many customer’s have told me in the past that they simply will not have a mortgage with “PMI” because they do not believe in it and that’s all there is to it.  I think it’s important to understand what it is, why it was created, what it does for you, and when you should have it and when you shouldn’t.  I’m going to try to answer some of the basic questions now. 

What is Mortgage Insurance?

Let’s start by talking about what it is not.  It is not “Hazard Insurance or Homeowner’s Insurance”.  These insurances are required to get a mortgage, but they also protect you in case there was something that damaged your home.  Mortgage insurance is a premium that is paid each month to your mortgage company to insure them in case you were to stop paying.  Essentially, you are paying this monthly premium so that your lender is protected.  Most times, the insurance will stay on for five years or when the loan reaches 78% of the appraised value.

On the surface, this sounds ridiculous.  Why would i pay an insurance premium so that someone else is protected.  The theory is that, without this insurance, the ability to get a mortgage without a ton of money down and without paying exorbitant interest rates would be slim.  Mortgage lenders simply would not offer the kinds of loans that would be needed to get your average consumer into a home.  That point can be debated but is best left for another post.  For now, that is the current theory.

What kinds of loans have Mortgage Insurance.

There are two types of loans that have premiums on them that are referenced as mortgage insurance premiums.  There are other loans on the market that have fees associated with them that could be arguably construed as insurance premiums but we will leave those out for purposes of keeping this post fairly short.  The two types of loans that i will be talking about are Conventional and FHA.

Let us start with Conventional Loans.  Conventional Loans are loans that are not insured or guaranteed by the government.  The two types of conventional loans are conforming and non-conforming.  The type of conventional loan that is going to have mortgage insurance is a conforming conventional loan.  In a nutshell, if you are going to do a conventional loan and do not plan on putting at least 20% down, you are going to have mortgage insurance on the loan that will be paid monthly in addition to what you pay in principal and interest. The amount of this insurance ranges and is based on how much money you are putting down, your credit score, and whether or not the loan you are doing is a fixed or adjustable rate.  If you are putting 20% or more down, you will not have mortgage insurance on a conventional loan.

The second type of loan with mortgage insurance is an FHA loan.  The amount of insurance required will vary, however FHA loans will always have some sort of mortgage insurance on them.  FHA loans will have insurance in two places.  The first part is an up-front insurance.  This is not something you pay out-of-pocket for as a customer but will be rolled into the loan amount.  Currently, that up-front premium is 1% of the loan amount.  This up-front insurance is the same on every FHA Loan.  The second part is the monthly premium.  The amount of the required monthly insurance varies and is tied to the term of the loan.

 Should i be ok with Mortgage Insurance?

There are a lot of times in my profession that i can easily get caught up in crossing the line between being a mortgage advisor and an overall financial advisor.  I am very careful not to overstep here.  However, with that said, the best thing i can advise on is to know what your goals for the property are and understand the market.  If your goal is to be in the home for a very short amount of time, i would advise strongly to consider the implications of dropping a whole bunch of cash into a property to simply avoid an insurance premium when your goal is to not stay there very long anyway.  The risk vs. reward equation in that scenario needs to be evaluated.  Personally, i would consider holding on to my cash.  On the other hand, if this property is the one that you plan on staying in for a long time, the cash infusion may be worth it to reduce the total cost of financing on the home and get rid of the insurance.  This can all be evaluated very easily be looking at the estimated time in the property and comparing it to an amortization schedule.

How do you “get out” of paying mortgage insurance?

Lastly, i want to talk a little about some of the ways you can “avoid” paying mortgage insurance.  I put “avoid” in quotes because, at the end of the day, if you are doing an FHA loan or a Conventional Loan over 80%, you are going to incur additional cost. 

The first and most popular way to avoid mortgage insurance is to do what’s called a piggyback loan.  This is when you buy a home using two mortgages at the same time….a first mortgage and a second mortgage.  The most common type nowadays is what’s called an 80/10/10.  This is where the mortgage company does a first mortgage (conventional) at 80%, the customer puts down 10%, and a second mortgage is simultaneously taken out at closing for the last 10%.  In this case, the first mortgage would not have MI.  However, there are two drawback to this scenario. 

The first one is that the lender who does this loan simultaneously with the second mortgage often times prices the 80% loan a little higher than normal because they see additional risk with the customer taking out a second mortgage at the same time as their first.  For example, instead of you getting a 4.25% rate, you get a 4.5% rate.  Yeah, you don’t have MI on that 4.5%, but the long-term cost of that loan probably just went higher than if you had mortgage insurance.

The second drawback is that now you have a second mortgage on the property.  This doesn’t sound like a big deal since you would have owed that money anyway.  However, these second mortgages that are used in 80/10/10 scenarious are most often interest only equity lines with variable rates. If you are not careful, you can end up with an equity line that doesn’t seem to ever go away with regard to the balance and the rate can go up on you.

The two other ways that you can avoid paying for mortgage insurance (other than just putting 20% down) is to go with a non-conforming loan or to elect “lender paid” insurance.  The first option, a non-conforming loan, is when you take out a loan that is not eligible to be sold to Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac.  These would typically be done with a lender that holds all of their loans and does not plan to sell them.  Here’s the deal….these lenders are not stupid.  They understand that doing a loan without 20% down is risky just like Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac do.  Most times, you will see that the interest rates with these companies are a quarter to 1/2% higher…..there goes your savings.  The other option, which often times customer’s do not know about, is for the lender to pay it.  This is called “lender paid insurance”.  All that is happening in this scenario is the lender is increasing the interest rate offered to make more money and pay the insurance on behalf of the customer.  To this day, i have not seen an instance where this makes sense in the long run.

To summarize, the key is to know your plans for the property and to compare amortization for the time you plan on spending their.  Please contact me with any questions on this.

 

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How about a Gift?

 

I get alot of questions on whether or not a customer can use money that someone gave to them for their down payment.  This is called “gift-funds” and it’s perfectly acceptable.  There are a few things that you have to be aware of……

First thing is where are you getting it from.  You can receive gift money from either a relative (by blood, adoption, or legal guardianship) or from a fiance’ or domestic partner.  Finally, it is acceptable in most cases that an employer (on an FHA loan) also be a donor. The donor cannot, however, be affiliated with a builder, agent, or any other interested party in the transaction.

Gifts can be used on a primary residence or a second home (second home gifts are only for conventional loans).  Here is what is allowed:

Conventional Loans:

On a one to four unit property (principle residence or second home), all required funds for down payment can come from a gift. 

On a principle residence over 80% loan-to-value, all required funds for down payment can come from a gift on a conventional loan.

On a two to four unit dwelling or second home over 80% loan to value, the borrower must make a 5% contribution from his/her own funds and the rest can come from a gift

FHA Loans

Gift funds are slightly more leniant on FHA Loans.  You cannot have a second home, FHA loan so this does not apply.  FHA is only for primary residences. There is some documentation that is needed, but overall, FHA does not have a limit on the amount of gift funds a customer can receive and use.   Also, FHA loans do allow in some cases for friends, charitable organizations, and labor unions and employers to be donor’s where conventional loans are stricter on that.

There is some documentation that is required for this including a “gift letter affidavit”.  Overall, the bottom line is that the donor has to show that they’ve had the money and has to sign the affidavit to give the money to the new borrower. 

Contact me if you have any questions.

 

Are you downsizing….here are some things to think about

This month i have been working with some very close friends who are looking to downsize from their current home into one that is smaller and in a downtown area that they would love to live in.  This sounds basic….doesn’t it??

In many situations this is a great financial and overall life move for many people.  Many of us are experiencing job changes or job loss that may make the idea of living in that huge home less appealing and more cash in your pocket seem like a great idea!  There are a few things that should be thought through with regard to the new mortgage approval process for that smaller home.

Underwriters (those that ultimately approve the loan) are going to wonder why?  This seems somewhat ridiculous at first.  What do you mean….why?  We don’t want that house anymore.  Our income has been cut, our kids are grown, we think it’s haunted….whatever?  Why does the underwriter care why and is it really their business if we qualify for the new loan.

The biggest concern is to consider the optics from the bank’s perspective.  Loans for an investment property have higher rates and more down payment requirements than those for a primary residence.  As such, one of the ways unscrupulous, dishonest people are going about getting cheap investment loans is to pose those loans as ones that they are going to live in when they aren’t.  So…the underwriter, in situations where a customer is downsizing is going to take a broader view of the entire loan proposal above and beyond just the traditional guidelines.  This is going to be most applicable in situations where a customer has not sold their existing home before starting the process to buy the new one.

Here are some specific thing to be aware of that the underwriter will be looking for:

  • Where is the new home going to be compared to the one they live in?  If it’s close, why are they buying a smaller home to live in right around the corner?
  • What is the reason for moving?  A letter of explanation should be provided by the borrower.
  • Is the home that the customer is currently living in “a stretch” financially for them right now or can they easily afford it (they determine this by analyzing your debts compared to your income)
  • Does this customer have a history of buying rental property?
  • Is their current home on the market.  To prove that this will be your new home, you should provide a copy of the MLS listing of your current residence.
  • The underwriter is going to compare their current property to the new one, and all things considered, make a determination on whether or not this makes sense.

Fact for you:  Underwriters are held responsible for loans that default or are deemed fraudulent for a period of five years after that loan is originated and are rated on their performance…..as such, in this scenario, they are going to require a good case to be made.

 

 

Loan officer compensation and what’s happening now….how it may effect you…

It’s been a wild week in the mortgage business.   Most of your major banks waited until this week to roll out their new compensation plans on how they are going to pay thier loan officers and wholesale partners (mortgage brokers).  With the new rollouts, everyone has been calculating their new plans and developing a strategy for one of two things—–(1) exiting the business (2) changing how they work within the business. 

There are a couple of truths that are extremely relevant.  A big rule is that that loan officers cannot be compensated based on the fee income generated on a loan.  This is meant to stop a loan officer from giving equally qualified customers different interest rates to make more money on one customer than another…..simply because he/she thinks they can get away with it.   Loan officers will be paid a flat fee (usually a percentage of the loan amount) on every loan they do.   I’ve seen the percentage this week range from .52bps to 150bps.  The thought process of the flat fee makes sense on the surface.  Why should equally qualified customers pay different amounts.  The consequence can be bad.  

The business is tough right now.  We all know it’s not easy getting loans approved.  Good companies and loan officers can get them done better than others but it’s still tough no matter where you are at.  As such, its tough for individual loan officers to create enough loan closings in a month to make the money they need to make.  The strategy from thier perspective becomes clear……”i’m paid a flat fee on every loan……concentrate on big loans”.   They won’t verbalize it, but watch the small loans you refer to them.  If they are not moving as quickly as you would like, quickly ask why??

Secondly, the mortgage brokers (not lenders) have a burden on them to make money one of two ways…… lender paid or customer paid.  They can no longer make income on both ends of the loan.  So, what happens here??  Because of this, we are going to see a disparity in the market.  Your big broker operations are going to shut down because there is not going to be enough income produced on each loan to support a staff.  The broker model will only make sense for very small operations.  There will be a move to more correspondent lending and the big banks will increase thier market share. 

As a realtor, this could be tough for you.  Those of you who have dealt with a large banks can tell you that the turn times leave much to be desired and the personalized service you get from a local mortgage professional is not there.   The bottom line is to talk with your mortgage parntern and ask him/her how this has effected them so everyone is in tune with each other and you can keep a watchful eye out on those small loans.   The good mortgage parnter should know that small loans lead to big loans and the long-term partnership is what matters.

Call me with questions.

Derreck Foreman

919.961.8808